fava beans and chianti

fava beans and chianti

Posted on 13. Aug, 2010 by Nick in entertainment

words > JESSY CLONTS

The collective American culture has a terrible intimidation that needs to be publicly addressed. It lurks in a glass bottle, takes several years to come to fruition, and means the difference between a mediocre meal and an exceptional one. How did we manage to develop a fear of wine?
Maybe it’s the unpronounceable names on those French bottles of Côtes du Rhône or the vernacular that includes words like “terroir” and “oenology.” Maybe it’s the idea that wine lovers are pompous snobs who like to throw their useless knowledge in your layperson face.
What the hell is kirsch, and how do we know if we smell it? And why do we need to smell it anyway if we’re drinking it? It’s human nature to fear the unknown, and wine in the U.S. has only become a respectable industry within the last thirty or so years. Who can blame us?
Relax. Wine need not be complicated. It is not for the wealthy elite to enjoy; it is for everyone, even Hannibal Lecter. Here are a few simple tips for ordering wine in a restaurant:
1. If you want to drink a glass with your rib-eye or rainbow trout and don’t know what to order, describe the qualities you like in a wine to your server and ask for a suggestion. I don’t mean something contrived like, “I’m looking for notes of chalk with a long finish of pencil lead and charred leather,” but really think about what makes you sit up a little straighter. Do you like a lot of fruit? Try a Merlot or red Zinfandel. Do you like a dry finish? Try a Cabernet Sauvignon or Sauvignon Blanc. Are you more turned on by spice or chocolate? A Syrah (or Shiraz, if it’s from Australia) might do the trick. Do you like sweet or light flavors? Rieslings and Gewürtztraminers are quite sweet, and Pinot Gris (or Pinot Grigio if it’s Italian) is incredibly light and crisp. Most varietals have several distinct characteristics that make choosing your favorites a little easier.
2. If you’re ordering a bottle, your server will show you the label before opening it. Check to make sure it is in fact what you’ve ordered. When smelling and tasting the wine, you’re looking for spoilage, not deciding if you like it. Every once in a while a bottle will oxidize and go bad due to improper sealing or storage. A “corked” wine will often smell like vinegar or mold, and taste musty or sour. Don’t be afraid to send back a corked bottle. It doesn’t happen frequently, but if you’ve picked a doozy the restaurant should have no problem replacing it. Do not, however, send back a bottle just because you’ve decided you don’t like the way it tastes.
3. Finally, all this noise about food pairings can go right out the window. Liver, fava beans, and a nice Chianti all taste marvelous together, I’m sure. But if you don’t like red wine—or liver and beans for that matter—it will all taste like poo. I can’t stand goat cheese and no pairing of Sauvignon Blanc will convince me otherwise. Give me a juicy, herby glass of Malbec, however, and I might eat anything. Simply enough: if you like it, drink it. Easy, right?

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3 Responses to “fava beans and chianti”

  1. Becky Fields

    19. Aug, 2010

    Jessy,
    I enjoyed your story. You have a very clever use of words while actually giving good advice. I have had the pleasure of attending two wine tastings that demonstrated the difference in wines paired with chocolate, wines with citrus fruits, etc. I was absolutely amazed that, while eating the chocolate, one wine would make the chocolate seem devine, and another wine would make me want to spew across the table. Who knew? The same sensation happened when pairing wines with citrus and other fruits. So the bottom line is if you are wanting wine to go with a specific meal, just ask the wine steward. I have actually sent back perfectly good wine after asking a waiter what he/she recommends for a specific meal. If I am going to pay $30 or more for a bottle of wine, they damn well better know their wines in order to avoid any spewing by the customer.

  2. John Love

    27. Aug, 2010

    Whoa Becky, really? I’ve spoken to a number of wine tasting event organizers who promise the magic tastes in wine, the hints and tones of this and the other, are literally pig swill and is a good indicator of a vineyards shameless promotion tactics. I feel that the suggestion of a flavor proffered with wine is often enough to prompt the human mind to believe it exists.
    I have never thrown out wine. Neither cask plonk nor home brew.
    Good column Jessy. I have a question for you; What leads to a better dining experience? Eating good food or eating with good company?

  3. Jessy Clonts

    27. Aug, 2010

    Thank you for your comments!

    I have heard both schools of thought regarding tasting notes and bouquets, but my personal experience leads me to believe that at the end of the day, most people will buy a strong sell. However, I did have a bottle of Felino Cabernet that I swore up and down smelled like kalamata olives, and it was nowhere in the marketing materials.

    Tasting notes do exist, and pairings are a great guide, BUT they’re not the be-all-end-all of a good wine experience. As people have preferences in all facets of life, so should they in the realm of wine.

    Becky, I do believe that a good server ought to know his or her wine list. If for nothing else than to take pride in their profession and earn their maximum potential. Plus, it’s fun and fascinating.

    John, I think it’s entirely possible to have an awesome dining experience alone with a fantastic meal, but good company is definitely icing on the cake.

    Thank you for reading! I really appreciate the comments. Please keep them coming!

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